The Legacy of Cameos and Intaglios

Descending through generations, appearing in the collections of world-renowned museums, and tucked away in antique stores, cameos and intaglios have excited and inspired their viewers to enjoy the objects for their rich history and craftmanship.

As more individuals become acquainted with this exquisite, miniature form of art, discovering their historic appeal as well as the aesthetic beauty of these engraved stones, cameo and intaglio collecting will continue to grow, and we’re happy to encourage its rising popularity.

Initially, engraved gems were portable seals used to imprint the wearer’s chosen design into wax or clay in order to ratify documents and objects in a time before signatures existed. Historically worn on finger rings and set in gold, silver, or bronze mounts, their material, size, and color would reflect the wealth and taste of the patron in the ancient world. As the ages wore on, these highly prized items became objects of fashion rather than function, and were worn to signify the interests, allegiances, beliefs, and persuasions of their owner.

Intaglios, which have designs cut as a depression into the surface of the gem, can be formed either by chipping away the surrounding surface until each detail is laid bare, or by driving cutting tools deep into the surface. The latter technique often made the impression difficult to detect unless pressed into wax, making it the premier choice for signet rings as centuries wore on in the ancient world. Due to their intricate, reverse designs, intaglios required not only high levels of skill, but stones hard enough to maintain detail without chipping or dulling easily, such as jasper, chalcedony, carnelian, amethyst, garnet and turquoise.

Cameos are raised in relief against a different colored backdrop, presenting a more striking image that was popular among ancient Grecian artwork. Moonstone and agate were common choices for this particular art form, but shells were the most popular material choice.

The wearing of cameos flourished especially in ancient Rome. Not only did these gems advertise taste and wealth as well as demonstrate devotion to gods or political forces— cameos were worn as rings, ceremonial dress insignia, phalerae (a military decoration worn on the breastplate of soldiers), on helmets, and even sword handles.

The Allure of the Antique

In the modern age of antique revival and cultural blending, we prefer to keep our gems snug and safe on our fingers, wrists, and collars as a chic fashion statement. But how did such widespread allure come to sit inside such a small gem?

Roots of the Ritual

Humans have long been obsessed with expressing ideals, preserving stories, and displaying status through art. Cameos and intaglios are the ancestors of a stone-carving tradition that stems from humanity’s earliest preserved artistic acts—prehistoric petroglyphs. As time progressed, artisans throughout the Mediterranean began to carve mythological symbols and political portraits into gemstones and glass.

From the Gemma Augustea—one of the most famous of the ancient Roman cameos made of Arabian onyx—to The Great Cameo of France—carved in five-layered sardonyx—the cameos and intaglios have captivated the public with their rich history, aesthetic appeal, and cultural significance for centuries.

We’re obsessed with the timeless appeal of cameos and intaglios. Regardless of how these engraved gemstones came to experience a resurgence, their historical significance and classical beauty have made them prized possessions among jewelry collectors and the antique-obsessed, and their styles have found their way into mainstream markets and significant sources of inspiration in the modern fashion market. 

"In my private collection, there is a sage-green box that clatters delicately each time I pick it up, filled to the brim with antique shells carved in the likeness of other peoples' faces: cameos, sketched by hand and rendered beautifully imperfect because of it. 

I'm not sure what first drew me to these age-transcending treasures, but my love for them has lasted through countless trips to Paris and beyond. Intaglios were among the first to be reflected in our jewelry line, from the Bonaparte collection's winged pegasus to the Scarab ring carved of a carnelian stone. And to honor cameos, we place them at the center of our Aristocrate earrings, where a coral-painted background honors the origins I love. 

Cameos are myths in the making, intaglios legends set in stone. 

And perhaps that's what keeps my focus, tugging at my heart whenever I stumble across a new design at a brocante in Provence or museum in Paris: the diversity and versatility of this artform, and its roots in storytelling since ancient times."

- Paula, Founder of Fallen Aristocrat